*I cleaned it and everything the best way possible.
Anyways, I'm looking for options to fix my pedal.
Posted 20 January 2021 - 21:13
Posted 20 January 2021 - 22:05
Looking at the datasheet, the terminals of this device are clearly labelled, so all you have to do is connect a voltmeter to the existing pot to determine and note which is +V, wiper and -V. Then connect those wires to the corresponding terminals on the new device.
In my culture, when one admits to making a correctable mistake, one corrects it.
Posted 20 January 2021 - 22:17
Cool, that's what it looked like to me, I just wasn't sure.
Thanks. I'll try to order it.
Posted 20 January 2021 - 22:28
Cool, that's what it looked like to me, I just wasn't sure.
Thanks. I'll try to order it.
Make sure you get the one with a rotation angle closest to your existing pot.
Did you see this post?
In my culture, when one admits to making a correctable mistake, one corrects it.
Posted 20 January 2021 - 22:40
Make sure you get the one with a rotation angle closest to your existing pot.
Did you see this post?
Yeah, I did the spike fix a few months after I bought the G940. The problem is on the pot itself (for all acounts, Logitech used cheap pots that spiked out of the box).
I'll check the rotation angle. I think Sokol states the angle in the same post.
Posted 21 January 2021 - 05:45
Posted 26 January 2021 - 04:31
Posted 02 March 2021 - 18:32
The buggers finally arrived. I'll test it as soon as have some time. I'll post the results here.
Posted 04 April 2021 - 02:52
Yesterday I had some time to test it. The sensor did not fry, which is a good thing (the black wire is the ground), but it did not work properly. It would reset the pedal to the left, but that's all. The controller might be running with 3.5V (sensor is 5V) to compensate for the bad quality pot, according to Sokol.
So I have to buy an arduino and make it a standalone pedal.
Back to square zero. It might take me a year or two to figure the arduino puzzle.
Posted 05 April 2021 - 18:10
So I have to buy an arduino and make it a standalone pedal.
I don't see any reason to do that. Provided nothing other than the original sensor is defective, your pedal unit already comprises everything required.
When you tested the new sensor, were you able to read a varying voltage at Vout as you rotated the shaft?
In my culture, when one admits to making a correctable mistake, one corrects it.
Posted 05 April 2021 - 19:48
When you tested the new sensor, were you able to read a varying voltage at Vout as you rotated the shaft?
I don't have a multimeter. I just connected the wires and tested it. From what Sokol writes, these controls are 5V, hence why he referred that hall sensor, but since Logitech used a poor pot, they lowered the voltage to 3.5V to prevent spikes. I think this is what they did with the Thrustmaster one. Or something like it.
Posted 05 April 2021 - 19:57
I don't have a multimeter.
Fix that problem first, then make decisions based on measurements.
In my culture, when one admits to making a correctable mistake, one corrects it.
Posted 05 April 2021 - 20:08
Fix that problem first, then make decisions based on measurements.
But the question is, if the sensor did not work, the multimeter will not help. Better to buy the arduino, because then I know it is going to work. Now if I had the option to buy 3.5V sensors, the multimeter would help me to determine which sensor should I get.
I have no choice other than to buy the arduino and make it a standalone pedal with the MMjoy2 firmware.
Posted 05 April 2021 - 20:25
Posted 05 April 2021 - 23:30
But the question is, if the sensor did not work, the multimeter will not help.
A multimeter always helps because it allows you to determine what is happening, when otherwise you're just shooting in the dark. If you had a meter, you would have certainty about which wire on the original pot does what. That would allow you to wire the new sensor with certainty. The only uncertainty a meter creates is how you ever managed without it.
A multimeter has two leads with probes. Set it to a suitable voltage range then having determined the two locations across which you wish to measure a voltage, touch one probe to one location and the other probe the remaining location. That's it.
If I were faced with your situation, I would reconnect the original pot to determine:
1. The voltage supplied to the potentiometer. If this meets the minimum required by the sensor, it should work provided that when connected, the sensor doesn't cause this voltage to drop.
If the voltage is too low, that problem can addressed.
2. The voltage range appearing at the pot's wiper terminal as the pedals move through their full range. This voltage is best measured relative to the 0v line, not either of the remaining terminals on the pot, as neither of these may be necessarily connected directly to 0v or +5v.
Armed with the above data, you would be able to determine why your new sensor does not work and what remedial action can be taken.
Even if you obtain an Arduino and associated software, you will still need a sensor and you will still be faced with the same task of interfacing it.
In my culture, when one admits to making a correctable mistake, one corrects it.
Posted 06 April 2021 - 00:19
Even if you obtain an Arduino and associated software, you will still need a sensor and you will still be faced with the same task of interfacing it.
I might do that, but chances are very slim that the controler is giving 5V to the sensor. When Sokol said about the 3.5V thing, I think he was like "I forgot to mention that Logitech tweaked the voltage to compensate for the bad pot".
I'll see what can I do. Thanks for the imput.
Posted 06 April 2021 - 02:48
I might do that, but chances are very slim that the controler is giving 5V to the sensor.
Having read the datasheet for that device, it's clear that it must be powered directly from the +5v and 0v rails, not the +v and -v wires going to the pot. Those two should be left disconnected and their ends insulated. The attached schematic shows the way I would connect it:
hall_sensor_diag.gif 12.04KB
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In my culture, when one admits to making a correctable mistake, one corrects it.
Posted 06 April 2021 - 04:02
Having read the datasheet for that device, it's clear that it must be powered directly from the +5v and 0v rails, not the +v and -v wires going to the pot. Those two should be left disconnected and their ends insulated. The attached schematic shows the way I would connect it:
Cool, thanks a lot! I'll try it. Maybe next month. I'm slammed for the next couple weeks.
Cheers,
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