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How to fix Logitech G940 rudder spikes/noise


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#1 Soilworker

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 13:04

I thought I'd post a bit of info about how I just repaired my G940.

I know a lot of people have the problem that after a time their G940 develops spikes or noise in one of the axes (yes that apparently is how you spell the plural form of axis), and I was unlucky enough to join the ranks.

After doing a lot of reading on the net of people attempting a lot of failed software fixes and and some successful hardware fixes I finally decided to open up my rudder pedals and take a look.

As soon as I moved the pedals the problem became apparent, the wires from the toe-brake controls move just a little bit but enough to pull on the wires which are connected to the main axis potentiometer.
This shouldn't necessarily be a problem however the terminals that connect to the pot are rather loose and move around when the pedals are moved.

So the quick fix I have done is to simply (but carefully) slightly crush/squeeze the terminals in such a way that they are a firm fit on the pot.

The more secure way which I may do in future would be to anchor the wires from the toe-brakes so they no longer move the rest of the loom, say just behind the connectors. And also for extra security maybe solder the wires directly to the pot, though at the moment that doesn't seem necessary.

I haven't had any problems with any other axes yet, but I'm hopeful that similar techniques can be applied, for those of you with such problems.

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#2 Demon_

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 17:58

Nice post
Thank :S!:
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#3 BADMUTHA

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 19:22

Okay, so the G940 has faulty rudder pedals and throttle, I though it was just the connection to the flight stick that was making my rudder pedals spike.

I'm glad I left my replacement sitting in the box, although now I'm stuck with an impossible to sell piece of hardware.
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#4 =IRFC=AirBiscuit

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 21:57

Thanks for posting this!
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#5 Soilworker

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 22:04

Hey no problem guys, I figured since it was such a relatively easy fix for such a widespread problem that the more info about it out there, the better.
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#6 Stick-95

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 23:14

Good post. Luckily I sent mine back within the 30 days. Too bad, there was much to like but my joystick also overheated and the sensor would cut out the FFB.
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#7 Point=Blank

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 12:00

Thanks, nice fix.

Regarding spiking on the rotary axes on the throttle, IMHO who cares, those are not needed for ROF anyway.
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#8 Soilworker

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 16:08

Thanks, nice fix.

Regarding spiking on the rotary axes on the throttle, IMHO who cares, those are not needed for ROF anyway.
That depends on how you use your stick and/or what level of realism you set, I use R1 for Mixture and R2 for Altitude Throttle.
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#9 BADMUTHA

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 17:17

Soilworker you can still use the rotaries and knob on the stick instead of the rotaries on the throttle, a slight inconvenience but overall acceptable.
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#10 Soilworker

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 21:08

Soilworker you can still use the rotaries and knob on the stick instead of the rotaries on the throttle, a slight inconvenience but overall acceptable.
You misunderstand me, I have no problems with those knobs and if I did I would fix them.
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#11 =IRFC=AirBiscuit

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 03:57

Soilworker,

Currently no plane in ROF has both mixture and altitude throttle, so you can map them both to the same rotary (which almost makes sense, anyway ;)). That frees up the other rotary for e.g. zoom.
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#12 Soilworker

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Posted 09 December 2011 - 18:19

Soilworker,

Currently no plane in ROF has both mixture and altitude throttle, so you can map them both to the same rotary (which almost makes sense, anyway ;)). That frees up the other rotary for e.g. zoom.
Yes I know that, I had it on my old set up.
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#13 IM0001

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Posted 26 January 2012 - 20:43

Okay, so the G940 has faulty rudder pedals and throttle, I though it was just the connection to the flight stick that was making my rudder pedals spike.

I'm glad I left my replacement sitting in the box, although now I'm stuck with an impossible to sell piece of hardware.

How much do you want for your replacement?
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#14 Foggy44

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Posted 02 June 2012 - 03:20

So I was reading about this in the other post, then followed the link to this thread.

First off, let me state that this was an issue I didn't even notice that I had. After reading it and watching that video, I went into my control panel/video game controller settings and put it on the pedals, then SLOWLY pushed full left and full right. When I pushed the left pedal slowly all the way forward, it registered smooth as silk, but when I pushed the right pedal forward slowly, it got spiky towards the end of the range. I did this repeatedly a bunch of times just to make sure it wasn't a fluke, then got to work…

I tightened up all of those connections, put the base plate back on, then tested it again. Voila! smooth all the way on both sides.

Thanks for posting this. I just fixed an issue I didn't even realize that I was having lol.
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#15 =IRFC=AirBiscuit

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Posted 29 December 2017 - 16:56


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=IRFC=Air Biscuit

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#16 Arty_Effem

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Posted 30 December 2017 - 11:13

[VIDEO]

 

Thanks for the warning.


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