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Building your own joystick/flight panel? Check this out...


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#241 dopster

dopster
  • Posts: 5

Posted 19 May 2012 - 07:26

@hq_Honeymonster: Hy there…I am new around, but i saw you panel, and i want to make one too. i am still gathering the needed pieces to build it, but i will do it in the end. :)

What is my question and big requirement for you? :p

I would like you to tell me, if you panel works without problems, and what potentiometres (sliders and rotary) you used; Their technical values…

And do the switches all work? The momentary and the On-Off-On…

Cause i need to make me a list of them, and go to the shop to buy them. I am not an expert in electronics, and i need to tell the dude at the shop exactly what i need…:)

You would make me a BIIG favour if answering at this post, and i would thank you much :)


Cheers !
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#242 =CfC=FatherTed

=CfC=FatherTed
  • Posts: 993

Posted 19 May 2012 - 10:40

Dopster, I made myself a panel by following the instructions in this thread (see a couple of posts back). It works perfectly. Here are the components I bought in addition to Leo Bodnar's controller:

30-3886 Polystyrene Box 220 X 140 X 40 Grey 1
66-0120 100k Ra602 Linear Slide Potentiometer 8
78-1550 Lrg Red Push to Make Switch 12
01-0108 11 x 2m Stranded Equipment Wire Pack 1
03-2351 1.6mm X 1.2m Heat Shrink Sleeve Red 3

I bought from a company called Rapid Online in the UK, and the numbers on the left in the list are the catalogue numbers. I also had to buy the knobs to go on the sliders and some screws to attach the sliders to the lid of the box. Talking of which, I would recommend making a wooden lid to the panel as the plastic is horrible to drill and cut.

Hope this is of some help
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#243 dopster

dopster
  • Posts: 5

Posted 26 May 2012 - 14:59

thank you Father Ted :)

Yup sure this is helpfull…I hope i will find the pieces here in my country. Leo Bodnars board i will order first, as it is the most important.

Thx again, and see ya in the skies.

btw. I fly with the nick Hedge. 5./jg54_hedge

~S
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#244 SuperSirLink

SuperSirLink
  • Posts: 55

Posted 26 June 2012 - 01:55

Just read through this thread twice now. I am inspired to build my own throttle quadrant with a few switches… Something simple… Also thought about getting the Saitek one and stealing the parts to customize it. But, those controller boards seems to make the build more achievable. Luckly I have access to an electrical engineer and a wood shop. :D
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#245 SYN_Flashman

SYN_Flashman
  • Posts: 539

Posted 03 July 2012 - 13:34

Just read through this thread twice now. I am inspired to build my own throttle quadrant with a few switches… Something simple… Also thought about getting the Saitek one and stealing the parts to customize it. But, those controller boards seems to make the build more achievable. Luckly I have access to an electrical engineer and a wood shop. :D


Get one of Bodnars card, the BU0836X version. This makes your life much, much easier. Also by using a card you will have many more switches and axes for future expansion once you get the building bug!
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#246 kcole4001

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Posted 03 November 2012 - 18:20

Am I correct in assuming that one of these cards (BU0836X) can be used to wire up an old set of game port rudder pedals?

I have a switch box built using 2 momentary push buttons and 6 momentary double throw toggles.
There should be plenty of contacts left over using the X version card to add the axes necessary for the rudder control.

I've been reading this thread and am contemplating adding a pair of pots to adjust mixture and radiator settings rather than use 2 of the momentary toggles, maybe even a third pot for a throttle with a custom lever similar to the throttle control in the Albatros cockpit.

Here's a pic:

Image

Still waiting on 1 more switch, I get these at work, but availability is poor at the warehouse.
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#247 hq_Peter_Zvan

hq_Peter_Zvan
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Posted 04 November 2012 - 03:04

Yes you are correct - the Leo Bodnar controllers are excelent.
I have used mine to replace the Simped and Fighterstick controllers and got much higher precision this way.
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#248 Markow

Markow
  • Posts: 201

Posted 04 November 2012 - 10:23

Yes: http://www.d13-th.ro...pic,6324.0.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.d13-th.ro...pic,6324.0.html

meanwhile…. two new ones:

Image

Please picture of your project.
Is the completed work?
How does it work?

:S!:
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#249 LukeFF

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  • LocationRedlands, California

Posted 05 November 2012 - 10:00

With the help of a friend yesterday I got my little "trim control" box built. Pictures and information can be found here: http://simhq.com/for...tml#Post3675564" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://simhq.com/for...bbthreads.php/t … ost3675564

:)
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#250 Volans

Volans
  • Posts: 8

Posted 06 November 2012 - 10:22

Please picture of your project.
Is the completed work?
How does it work?

Unfortunately not much of an update…not much of spare time either. 8-)
What it looks like now (plus dust…):

Image

Still managed to complete an older project: all metal "baloo style" rudder pedals:

Image
Image
Image
Image



LukeFF: that's a nice trim box. For smooth trim maybe some reduction gearing mechanism is necessary?
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#251 LukeFF

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 20:40

LukeFF: that's a nice trim box. For smooth trim maybe some reduction gearing mechanism is necessary?

It's actually pretty smooth right now as it is, though I may tweak it some in the future. For now I'm happy with it. :)
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#252 maniac

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  • Posts: 25

Posted 13 November 2012 - 09:46

Image

Image

Image

Doesn't look like much, but the hall sensors are very precise!

I started out with something to put on my desk, I ended up with this: :)

Image


thats a nice cockpit :)
I remember a few years ago in Ashford there was a company that did R&D, one of the things they did was making enclosed cocpits that moved aswell :) they did testing for avionics etc, but a basic cockpit for use on a pc was around 4k, I did think about it but had nowhere at home to put it :)
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#253 kcole4001

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Posted 20 November 2012 - 02:03

Please picture of your project.
Is the completed work?
How does it work?

Unfortunately not much of an update…not much of spare time either. 8-)
What it looks like now (plus dust…):

Image

Still managed to complete an older project: all metal "baloo style" rudder pedals:

Image
Image
Image
Image

Fantastic job, both on the sticks and the pedals!
————————————————-

A quick question for the wiring gurus:

I just got my package from Mr. Bodnar which includes three rotary pots and the BU0386X.
Am I correct in assuming the pots wire up as follows:
(with pins pointing downward)
left pin: 5v
centre pin: input
right pin: ground
Also, do these need to be attached to the card using the set of contacts with three terminals each right next to the USB connector?

The pots will be used for throttle, mixture, and radiator control, leaving the six momentary toggles for other functions, and the momentary push buttons will control engine start and rearm functions.

I will use the first Z axis (just for continuity's sake) connector group on the BU0386X for adding rudder pedals, while retaining the standard X and Y axes for joystick control, which will still be run by a T16000M until I can build my own stick.
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#254 kcole4001

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Posted 24 November 2012 - 15:48

I think I have the wiring figured out.

Finally made some progress:

pots are wired to the board, switches have their leads attached
Image

attached third wire to Thrustmaster pedal pot:
Image

replaced pot cover, made slot for third wire:
Image

Thrustmaster Elite Pedals, game port plug cut off,
just have to wrap wires and attach to board:
Image

everything wired to the board, messy, but it will just fit in the box,
rudder pedal cable secured to base of box
Image

tidied up:
Image
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#255 kcole4001

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Posted 25 November 2012 - 22:34

All tested, pedals originally were attached to the Z axis connectors, but only the pots registered in the X, Y, and Z axis in windows.
I then attached the rudder pedal wires to the 'dial' inputs and now all is functional.

Now to make a bracket to attach the unit to the desk and fashion levers for the pots.
I'd be done the bracket by now, but it's bloody cold in the garage.
My radial arm saw was sticking on it's runners, so I wait 'til it warms up a bit.
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#256 kcole4001

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Posted 02 December 2012 - 19:30

Here's the finished box, labelled and with pot levers and stop brackets attached:
Image

Key assignments and testing will occur tonight after I get back from bingo.
I still have 5 available key/switch assignments if I feel the need, plus the 12 side buttons on the T16000m if I need any more (which I don't expect).
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#257 Rivet

Rivet
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Posted 16 September 2013 - 11:51

I had been wanting to build a joystick extension for quite a while but never seemed to quite get round to it. Part of that was deciding on the method and also sourcing the right parts i.e. the hose connector for one thing (I never thought to look on Amazon.com assuming that they wouldn't deliver to the UK like so many other companies, but on this item they do).

The basic idea came from recoilfx's warthog extension solutions over at SimHQ - - thank you - - :S!: but with a few differences to suit my hardware and limited workshop. My controller is a TM Cougar with Ian Johnston's U2 NXT mod. This left me with the original gimbals shaft spare. I thought it would be good to try to incorporate it into the extension.

Materials:
Beech:
For the wooden bits
Copper ferrules : Made from 1x 1" 90 degree pipe bend. That was just what I had to hand. Anything will do as long as it's around 1".
Original Cougar gimbals shaft:
Steel tubing: This came from an old busted garden swing seat and is approx 1.25" external diameter.
The Gardena 39035 5/8-Inch Metal Garden Hose Connector:
A bit of scrap aluminium:
A PS2 extension lead:
Two part epoxy adhesive:
Some time and patience.


Having got all the bits and pieces together including a PS2 extension cable I set to work.
Rather than scour the local plumbing merchants and DIY outlets for suitable copper pipe to fit inside the swing seat tube I decided to utilize my wood lathe and make something to fit exactly. Turning the wooden bush and drilling the hole for the old gimbals shaft went without a hitch.

The old gimbals shaft however, has two "lugs" on it so I was left with two options. First I could grind off the lugs so the shaft would fit the wooden bush, or I could leave them intact and try to cut a slot in the wooden bush. I went with cutting the slot as this would facilitate making the handle adjustable later on.

Next, the copper pipe joint was cut to give me two ferrules. Fine, but they were too small to fit over the turned wooden bush. My solution was to split them and open them up enough to slide over the wooden bush. They'll be epoxied in place anyway.

Image
This pic shows all the components used except the wiring. The first four components from the left go to make up the part of the extension the handle locates into. A small hole in the white tubing was drilled to take a small self tapping screw (shortened to suit) to bear on the copper ferrule to lock the handle at the desired angle. The old gimbals shaft is eventually glued into the wooden bush with two part epoxy.

The other end of the extension, the bit that fits into the Cougar's base and U2 NXT gimbals shaft was made as follows:
Again, another wooden bush was turned and drilled, but this time with a lip on it to match the outside diameter of the tubing. The bush had to be done in two parts this time as the hose connector had to be "captive". These two parts I finally glued together with ordinary PVA. Some careful use of a small chisel cut the profile in the wood to match (as near as I could) the cnc'd profile of IJ's gimbals shaft. It ended up a nice tight fit even if it doesn't look too pretty.

The problem with wood is that it isn't quite as hard as metal and repeated assembly and disassembly could very quickly wear the wood away. My solution to this was to make a small fishplate from some scrap aluminium and fix that to the bottom of the bush. This assembly will be fixed in place in the tube with epoxy.

The following three pics show the top and bottom assemblies test fitted together and also how the final assembly will look.

Image

Image

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All that's left to do now is the wiring and final assembly.

The ends of the PS2 cable had to be carefully trimmed circular to fit into the locations in the shaft. I did this with a very sharp wood chisel with the connectors held in a vice (be careful not to over tighten and distort or break the connector). Once trimmed to fit there is not a lot of material left on the connectors. Carefully does it is the key here.

A point to note is that the original male connector in the Cougar's (and probably Warthog's ) handle has a plastic locating tab to fit in the female connector in the base. This tab is positioned slightly differently to the PS 2 tab and socket. I overcame this by fitting a fine grinding bit into a Dremel type tool and elongating the slot in the female PS2 socket. It worked a treat and I didn't have to break off the tab on the original Cougar connector.

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The cable was then cut to length and the wire ends prepared for soldering. Don't forget the shrink tubing.

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All wires soldered and the unit is ready for testing. I coiled up the small amount of excess cable into the extension tube and connected it to the Cougar's base. Nothing is glued permanently at this stage as it all may have to come apart again if it doesn't work. I needn't have worried but it's best to be safe. The stick with extension calibrated perfectly using the Cougar Hotas CCP. It WORKS - YAY!!! :D

Image
That done successfully, The final outer bit of shrink tube was applied. You can see the small self tapping screw fitted to the tube to the right of the pic. This bears onto the copper ferrule shown protruding and facilitates handle adjustment.

After the test the original gimbals shaft was glued into the wooden holder using epoxy, and after coiling the excess cabling into the tube, the bush holding the hose connector was glued into the other end of the tube and the whole lot left over night to cure.

Image
Here's a pretty poor pic of the almost finished extension in situ in a hastily built pedestal made from MDF. I don't have a proper cockpit yet (or the brownie points needed with my good lady to build one which is more to the point ;) ) so my setup is a bit of a mess at the moment and not ideal, but it does work. I just have to tart up the extension tube so it looks good and black. A black joystick on a white shaft doesn't look that great. Still, that's just my opinion.


Oh, I couldn't let it go like that so here's the finished article.

Image
Ah that's better. A bit of black carbon fibre vinyl wrap finishes it off nicely. I will tidy up the disgraceful wiring and strive for a better overall layout ………………… honest :D .

No original Joystick parts were harmed or altered in any way during the making of this extension. :lol:
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#258 Pirato

Pirato
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Posted 31 October 2014 - 18:38

I finaly finished my Buttonbox project and remembered this thread. It's made with Cliffs of Dover and BoS in mind,my goal was to add all buttons needed to start up a 2 engined aircraft and then some General controls for Gear,Flaps,cockpit lights,navigation lights etc.

First picture shows the very first attempt,I still had 10 Button conectors left and decided to not waste them.

So I added some more buttons as shown in the next pictures,had to change the layout a bit for them to fit. I didn't like the feel of the large red buttons which I intended to use for Engine starter button,so I added an engine selector toggle and a different Button for ignition,it's the upper right button and the switch below moves left/right as engine selection.
I had to add a small "Box" to the left for the last button and imo it doesn't look too much out of place,it has a different angle than the main box,I wanted it to stand out from the rest so it doesn't look just like it was slapped on afterwards. It's intended use is for the Canopy open/close.
Now all 32 button conectors are used up. I'm glad all the cables fitted inside the Box,space inside is really tight.
The reason that there is so much free space on the bottom is that the controler board is sitting there inside of the box. I didn't want to have it somewhere outside,but when I'm thinking about it now it would had been the better choice. Anyway I wanted it so the box can be just removed and used as stand alone if necessary.

It all looks a bit crowded now,not sure I really like it. Guess I need to get used to it, atleast I will not change it anytime soon. I may label the switches and buttons at some point though.

The last picture shows it in place. All in all I'm satisfied,especially because it was my first box I ever built.


PS: Sorry for the low quality pictures. I REALLY need to get a decent Camera soon.

Attached File  Front.jpg   866.83KB   271 downloads

Attached File  Final.jpg   1MB   271 downloads

Attached File  In place.jpg   755.2KB   271 downloads
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Dann gibt's Heulen und Zähne klammern, für das ganze Lumpenpack.
Dann ist Schluss mit "Tischlein deck' dich", da gibt's "Knüppel aus dem Sack"!


#259 Proccy

Proccy
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Posted 31 October 2014 - 21:54

Great job mate.. love to see the finished article
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Lieut. (A./Capt.) Andrew Weatherby Beauchamp-Proctor, D.S.O., M.C., D.F.C., No. 84 Sqn., R.A. Force.


#260 BaronVonMyakin

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Posted 04 November 2014 - 13:03

Looks good, Pirato! Well done!
Could I know which controller for all these buttons you used?
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#261 Pirato

Pirato
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Posted 04 November 2014 - 15:55

I have used a Leo Bodnar BU0836X board. I figured that a BBI-32 Button Box Interface also by Leo Bodnar would had been enough for just buttons. But I may add some Axis for Trim controls later into a different box. Thats why I picked the BU0836X, just to be future proof.
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Dann gibt's Heulen und Zähne klammern, für das ganze Lumpenpack.
Dann ist Schluss mit "Tischlein deck' dich", da gibt's "Knüppel aus dem Sack"!


#262 BaronVonMyakin

BaronVonMyakin
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Posted 04 November 2014 - 20:15

Thank you very much for your answer!
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#263 Scott_Steiner

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  • LocationWisconsin, USA

Posted 04 November 2014 - 23:26

I bought an old Suncom Hotas stick off of ebay awhile ago and have had the thought of using the BU0836X to get rid of its old gameport interface and give it all new internals, the Bodnar boards are pretty slick for a number of uses.
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#264 Bishopmagee

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  • Posts: 11

Posted 01 August 2015 - 04:39

I really like what you did with the canopy open/close toggle switch. I may (will) be borrowing that idea in the future, thanks.

Shawn
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