Jump to content


Photo
* * * * * 1 votes

Building your own joystick/flight panel? Check this out...


  • Please log in to reply
263 replies to this topic

#161 =AH=_Sid

=AH=_Sid
  • Posts: 1229

Posted 23 July 2011 - 17:50

I agree a “Bowden Cable” could be used instead of a fixed rod, but unless you have a need to mount the Slide Potentiometer at some distance from the lever, aren't you just adding a lot of complexity by using one?

A quick graphic of a fixed rod setup,

Attached File  Slide-Potentiometers_Rod.jpg   60.72KB   599 downloads

and some alternative positions.

Attached File  Slide-Potentiometers_Rod2.jpg   42.6KB   598 downloads
  • 0

#162 SYN_Flashman

SYN_Flashman
  • Posts: 539

Posted 23 July 2011 - 18:26

Been watching this thread adn the bowden business is interesting. Given that as simmers we dont need heavy duty stuff perhaps some of these used in RC aircraft are sturdy enough?

http://www.hyperflig...ode=PUSHROD-SET" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.hyperflig...o.uk/products.a … USHROD-SET

Probably easier to mess about with than the motorcyle version being plastic and all. Anyone got experience of RC aircraft? Are these fragile?

Im thinking of making a new throttle quadrant of my own design and these might be useful rather than trying to use rotary pots so I can get a decent number of levers in one place
  • 0

#163 =AH=_Sid

=AH=_Sid
  • Posts: 1229

Posted 23 July 2011 - 22:07

They look interesting Flashman :)

If you go with slider pots make sure you get the Linear ones Not the logarithmic ones.

RS Components sell them in 30mm, 45mm, and 60mm actuator travel lengths (although I'm sure I've seen 100mm available as well).

These ones are all 50kΩ (I've been told 10kΩ ones would be better, but I've never found them in the Linear version, and the 50kΩ seem to work fine for me), also be aware they use "carbon tracks" similar to standard potentiometers, so will probably eventually suffer the same spiking type issues. Let me know if any one finds a "Hall-Effect" type contactless version of a slide potentiometer.
  • 0

#164 hq_Honeymonster

hq_Honeymonster
  • Posts: 621

Posted 23 July 2011 - 23:08

Brando a spring adds tension and removes any tolerance issues with the parts. The cables with the casings you discuss tend to move when under load. The casings can flap around all over the place when not well secured and all so effect the position when you move them by hand. This could lead to poor repeatability. Not a serious issue with throttle and mixture but one which could cause your calibration to wonder especially if you don't secure them well. Certainly not something you'd want to entertain on control surfaces no doubt. I don't remember old bikes with coin tensioners but I'm sure the would use grease or soft metals (maybe even chrome) between the surfaces? And since we have nylocks now what's the harm in using one? (Unless you wnat to keep tightening it up. It will still loosen off after lots of movement without vibration.)

:)

Flashy the model plane stuff can be of excellent quality but you get what you pay for. A lot of the real high end 3D/Pattern guys use rose jointed titanium ended linkages with all sorts of fancy construction costing many hundreds of pounds. The ones you have listed look quite suitable though but could be tricky to tie down and terminate well. Carbon is light (good for R/C planes) but easy to damage and a pain to work with in my experience.


Sid I prefer your linkage method over a sleeved cable, I think it will be more precise and it has simplicity on it's side. A spring connected to the pot would take some slop out of the linkage though. I'm suprised you can't find 10k sliding pots? Nearly all electronics suppliers sell 10k linear sliding potentiometers, at least in the UK they do. I used 10k linears from 3 different suppliers in the controllers I made in this thread. Carbon pots are dated and inferior to high precision conductive plastic ones. Wire wound are good too but plastic pots suit our applications best. They are smoother, have better wear characteristics and excellent repeatability.

You won't get a hall sensor that works in a similar fashion to a slider. The sensor needs to be close to the magnet at all times. The performance really starts to taper off as distance increases too.


Finally in my experience unless you get real high end sliding pots you won't get the precision of even a cheap rotary pot. Sure you get a bit more travel but the cheaper sliding pots tend to have quite a bit of mechanical wobble and rock. Also any play in the method of connection is most undesirable (hence I like the use of a spring/tension). Even a tiny amount of play is amplified hugely with a lever.


When it comes to precision I find the above things important although others may over look them and consider it a minor annoyance?


Cheers

Edit: this has a good explanation of pot types and composition

http://sound.westhost.com/pots.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://sound.westhost.com/pots.htm
  • 0

#165 brando

brando
  • Posts: 65
  • LocationDevon, England.

Posted 24 July 2011 - 00:33

I wasn't suggesting that there would be no 'soft' washers in the make-up of the levers I described. Before nylon a composition similar to Bakelite, known as Tufnol, was used to separate the metal surfaces and prevent them from seizing. The coin-type tensioner was actually better than a locknut, though the ultimate would be a Nyloc wing-nut I'm sure.
  • 0

#166 hq_Honeymonster

hq_Honeymonster
  • Posts: 621

Posted 24 July 2011 - 08:10

Ah OK Ross I though we were back on to the nylon subject. "Tufnol" what a cool name :D .

I do like the idea of adjustable tension and it would be a nice touch, like you say a nyloc wingnut would be ideal.
  • 0

#167 =AH=_Sid

=AH=_Sid
  • Posts: 1229

Posted 24 July 2011 - 23:21

Thanks Honeymonster <S> A couple of questions for you, if you have time Sir.

When I said "I've been told 10kΩ ones would be better, but I've never found them in the Linear version", I meant, when I had to replace one of the pots, I was pointed to RS Components as being the original supplier of the pots used in the "SpitSim" I have. I had a look but the Alps Slider pots they stock only seem to come in 10kΩ logarithmic ones and 50kΩ linear ones, I didn't search much harder than that at the time.

Hands up, electronics is not my strong suite, given it's been working fine with the 50kΩ ones, what difference would fitting 10kΩ ones make?

It's currently fitted with these Std slim line slide pot,50K lin 45mm, if I'm going to do a straight replacement with 10kΩ ones, any recommendations for a good quality "Std slim line slide pot,10K lin 45mm"?

Lastly, now you have me searching round the internet for "real high end sliding pots" would either of these be any good?

Celesco's miniature MLP series linear potentiometers

Novotechnik linear non-contact

I don't have any price information for either (probably out of my price range anyway), but as I say my electrical knowledge isn't up to knowing if they would even work for this.


Regarding the current setup mechanically, I'll try and take some more photos of the linkages and friction setup for you guys in the next couple of days, might spark some more clever ideas for your own setups. The linkages don't appear to have any appreciable "Slop" that I can see.
  • 0

#168 hq_Honeymonster

hq_Honeymonster
  • Posts: 621

Posted 25 July 2011 - 17:54

The way the pot generally works on joysticks is by varying the 5v (standard usb and logic level voltage). All the way down there will be 0v, and all the way up there will be 5v coming from the centre terminal (wiper). How the change in resistance could effect you really depends on the hardware it's connected to. Some will lose resolution others will adapt appropriately. Higher value pots can have less resolution because they have to cover a wider range but this is not always the case. If you check your raw data in windows joystick calibrator you will know right away if you have lost resolution or not by making a comparison to one of your 10k pots. Alps are a good quality fader used in many audio mixers and professional equipment. Slimline will limit your choice, do they really need to be slimline?

Tolerance (%), bending and wobble are the things you should pay the most attention to. Bending and wobble seem quite high on that data sheet and they are specified as general purpose not precision.

The others items you have listed are really cool looking. If you plan to do any upgrades the joystick/pedal axis are the ones I'd pay attention to as most games (especially ROF) don't need a highly accurate throttle/mixture. However ROF does crave a very accurate/precision joystick.

The novotechnic item you have listed does seem to be some magnetic based type of technology which I haven't seen used in this manner before. I haven't had time to read it fully yet but it makes a bold claim of unlimited life expectancy when of course there are still some moving parts. A very bold claim! They also seem to have excellent resolution, but remember the limitation of resolution depends as much on your analogue to digital conversion (joystick pcb) as your input devices (pots/sensors/whatever).

The Celescos look beautiful but are no doubt priced to match. They also have nice linkage ends pre-fitted.

There are also fine resolution optical faders to investigate which are used on lots of high end audio.

As for recommendations it depends on weather you're limited to slimline or not. Unfortunately a lot of the higher quality faders are generally logarithmic as they tend to be used for audio/studio devices. I'm sure you'll find some higher precision/accuracy 10k's though hopefully with a bit less wobble and rock. Once you can ascertain the outer dimensions you have space for I'm happy to have a look but with this information I'm sure you'll have no bother. Even if you are stuck with slimline I'm sure there will be some decent conductive plastic units available.

Wobble and rock are not on the data sheet of a rotary pot which is why in many cases they would still be my first choice for axis. Your equipment is somewhat unique though. :mrgreen:

Cheers
  • 0

#169 =AH=_Sid

=AH=_Sid
  • Posts: 1229

Posted 25 July 2011 - 18:47

Many thanks Honeymonster, everything looks good in the Windows Joystick Calibrator and Foxy's Joystick Analyser, so it looks like these pots should be ok for now (FWIW plenty of space, so higher quality replacements wouldn't have to be Slimline).

I've got hold of one of Leo Bodnar's Ultra Precision Joystick Controller BU0836A 12-bit (4096 step). So I might look into these others to make the most of the 12-bit resolution (am I correct in thinking to get the 12-bit (4096 steps) I need something the has a resolution of (5v/4096) 0.00122v ?)

So far I've found a supplier in the UK for both these items, Variohm, still no price listed on their site (not a good sign), but I agree the Celescos do look beautiful.

Sorry another question for you, I'd quite like to run the Cougar Controller I'm currently using in parallel with BU0836A Controller. Is it possible to feed the output from a single "Pot" to two controllers?
  • 0

#170 hq_Honeymonster

hq_Honeymonster
  • Posts: 621

Posted 25 July 2011 - 19:08

Wow that place sells some cool sensors!!

Sorry another question for you, I'd quite like to run the Cougar Controller I'm currently using in parallel with BU0836A Controller. Is it possible to feed the output from a single "Pot" to two controllers?

As long as they share the same 5v supply (which they should from the USB. Easy to check with a multimeter.) in theory yes. You can also get dual track/gang pots but if you don't mind me asking why would you want to double an output?

Cheers

Edit: and yes about the resolution but try moving your lever 4096 times covering its range to see if this is neccessary, it sure isn't on a desktop joystick but with your setup you might just manage it? :D
  • 0

#171 =AH=_Sid

=AH=_Sid
  • Posts: 1229

Posted 25 July 2011 - 20:10

Wow that place sells some cool sensors!!

Sorry another question for you, I'd quite like to run the Cougar Controller I'm currently using in parallel with BU0836A Controller. Is it possible to feed the output from a single "Pot" to two controllers?

As long as they share the same 5v supply (which they should from the USB. Easy to check with a multimeter.) in theory yes. You can also get dual track/gang pots but if you don't mind me asking why would you want to double an output?

Cheers

Edit: and yes about the resolution.

"if you don't mind me asking why would you want to double an output?"

I was afraid you were going to ask that ;)

The Cougars programming software is immensely powerful (most people only scratch the surface of it).

An example: I don't have toe brakes, but I can tell windows via the cougar that I do. To the game/windows these toe brakes are just two normal axes working left an right brake independently. I can then take the rudder axis (which is still seen by the game/windows as an analogue axis) and divide this axis up into 100 digital positions (as seen by the cougar only) from which I can program the cougar (using logical programming) that when I put the brakes on (using a button or another axis) if the rudder axis is neutral both "imaginary" toe brakes would go on, but if the rudders aren't neutral the amount of braking by each toe brake can be varied by the deflection of the rudder. Not much good in RoF, but I use this in AcesHigh.

Even if I have the BU0836A Controller working the Elevator, Aileron, Rudder axis in the game (for it's precision), I would still like the cougar to "know" what position these axis are in for programming purposes like in the above example.

"As long as they share the same 5v supply (which they should from the USB. Easy to check with a multimeter.) in theory yes."

Still not sure I fully understand this, both controllers would have a "+5v lead", "GND lead" and "Input lead". If the pot is connected to the ones from the Cougar controller, could I just connect the "Input lead" to the BU0836A as well or would I need to use it's "+5v lead", "GND lead"?

Attached File  BU0836pot.png   48.79KB   642 downloads
  • 0

#172 hq_Honeymonster

hq_Honeymonster
  • Posts: 621

Posted 25 July 2011 - 20:38

Hey Sid

That sounds like a really cool bit of software. Dare I say it without getting flamed Clod actually has a new feature very similar to this. It allows you to assign use a combination of a button and axis for a different function.

About the 5v volts

The usb gets its 5v/ground from the PC power supply rail so it should work just fine especially if you are using both usb's from from the same source. An example that could potentially cause an issue is if one was powered by a (powered) USB hub and the other was powered straight from the PC. There is a small chance the hub or joystick controller could have an isolated 5v supply feeding the inputs and only use the PC supply for the USB digital outputs (I'm doing my normal theory thing here this maybe nonsense). It also could be the case with any seperately powered joystick and make sure it doesn't step down to 3v or something on the joystick board some logic/analogue is 3v!. The easiest and nearly always the best solution here is to run with my favorite saying:

"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."

More than likely it will be fine and if not easy to resolve. Check the 2 outer pot pins on your current setup with a multimeter to see if you get 5v.

Another thing I was thinking earlier does anyone know (777team?) how many positions are actually coded for the axis in ROF? Even with 1000's of positions on a controller the game may support far less, or more I just don't know? This is where accuracy rather than precision comes into play. They are very different things so for the sake of simpleness we'll describe accuracy as repeatability. This is heavily linked to unwanted mechanical movement which a prime example of is wobble and rock. Precision is no good if it's not repeatable (hope that makes sense?).

I hope our in depth stuff doesn't put any new chaps off, if anyone's feeling a bit confused please head to the start where you'll be able to make a simple controller and have a lot of fun doing it.

:)

Cheers

Edit: if our assumptions are correct 5v and 0v from one controller to the outer legs (not both) And both signal cables to the middle leg. So leaving the 5v and 0v from one controller unused so to speak.
  • 0

#173 J5_Rumey

J5_Rumey
  • Posts: 1180

Posted 26 July 2011 - 15:19

Right a bit of update. Made a light verion that I am testing.

Attached File  Final-1.jpg   215.36KB   599 downloads

Attached File  final2.jpg   244.44KB   599 downloads

Takes some getting used to. It is a mix of a cople of differnt joysticks. :x
  • 0

#174 hq_Honeymonster

hq_Honeymonster
  • Posts: 621

Posted 26 July 2011 - 17:14

Looking very cool there Rumey. :mrgreen:

How are you finding the extended stick?
  • 0

#175 =AH=_Sid

=AH=_Sid
  • Posts: 1229

Posted 26 July 2011 - 20:05

Looks Good Rumey :S!:

Thanks Ben, I'll have to have a play.

Another thing I was thinking earlier does anyone know (777team?) how many positions are actually coded for the axis in ROF? Even with 1000's of positions on a controller the game may support far less, or more I just don't know?
Good point.
  • 0

#176 brando

brando
  • Posts: 65
  • LocationDevon, England.

Posted 27 July 2011 - 17:04

I've finally got started on my new H(1)OTAS.

The big end of the throttle lever takes on a new role

Attached File  Stick02.jpg   433.12KB   550 downloads

You can't beat Milliput for this job

The control board seated in the frame

Attached File  Stick03.jpg   465.4KB   550 downloads

The other half of the frame will get its 'fairing' of Milliput tomorrow.

I will blank off the stick-base with clingfilm so that the putty only adheres to the frame and not the base. It's a cosmetic exercise as I will be using three screws to hold the frames together and the button board in place. Once it's all cured and painted I will start on adding essential buttons in this area. I need to have a Shift button somewhere close so that I can use it with the various hats and double the command options - and I think I'll place the Mode button somewhere on the deck too. That'll treble the doubled command possibilities and gives a minimum of 96 available! He he.
  • 0

#177 hq_Honeymonster

hq_Honeymonster
  • Posts: 621

Posted 27 July 2011 - 18:51

Great stuff Brando this should be a really unique bit of kit when it's finished. :D
  • 0

#178 brando

brando
  • Posts: 65
  • LocationDevon, England.

Posted 28 July 2011 - 12:22

The clingfilm worked a treat, and here's the second half curing

Attached File  Stick04.jpg   411.45KB   509 downloads

An hour later and I can do the dummy run :)

Attached File  Stick05.jpg   468.82KB   509 downloads

Tomorrow I will fit the panel and the, er, bottom top-hat.

Hooray for Humbrol paint.
  • 0

#179 hq_Honeymonster

hq_Honeymonster
  • Posts: 621

Posted 29 July 2011 - 22:27

Looking cool Ross. :mrgreen:

For those seeking a nice tactile feel on their controller may I recomend the microswitch button.

The switch for the controller connoisseur.

Image
  • 0

#180 brando

brando
  • Posts: 65
  • LocationDevon, England.

Posted 13 August 2011 - 15:18

I've been flat out with a bug for days :xx: and only managed a little more on the stick front: mainly cutting and shutting to allow for my left-handedness.

Attached File  LHS.jpg   406.12KB   422 downloads Attached File  RHS.jpg   391.44KB   422 downloads

Muso's may notice that I have used the knob from a Fender Telecaster for my throttle. Solid metal, knurled for grip, and very, very cool :lol:

Buttons are next and I'll be able to go and see my soldering buddy…..

:S!: Brando
  • 0

#181 hq_Honeymonster

hq_Honeymonster
  • Posts: 621

Posted 17 August 2011 - 10:03

Looking excellent Ross really like what you've done with the throttle. :D
  • 0

#182 SYN_Tomslik

SYN_Tomslik
  • Posts: 442

Posted 21 August 2011 - 04:54

Have any of you seen this site yet. ?

http://www.rogerdodg...er_gallery.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.rogerdodg...et/diyflightsim … llery.html

or this site, give it a second to redirect , dont know why it does that.
anyway these guys are ALOT more technical with their pits.

http://viperpit.org/smf/index.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://viperpit.org/smf/index.php
  • 0

#183 brando

brando
  • Posts: 65
  • LocationDevon, England.

Posted 21 August 2011 - 14:44

Those certainly are a wild set of pits, Tomslik! A lot of them are jigged up for FSX of course - but the all-ally jet pit is a beauty :mrgreen:

Back at the funny farm, I got to thinking how the CH trigger is basically a large lump of plastic that only does one thing - so out came the Dremel and the Milliput, and a day later I had thisAttached File  and_on.jpg   421.38KB   635 downloads
Two buttons that should make firing different weapons a doddle :D Firing both simultaneously is also easy :x
Using the 'pinky' shift button will mean four separate commands available (these go through the CH loom) and, if necessary, I can add another set (or 2) using the mode function!

Job done: I'm nipping back to take another look at that first link, and dream 8-)

B
  • 0

#184 hq_Honeymonster

hq_Honeymonster
  • Posts: 621

Posted 21 August 2011 - 19:54

That 2 button set up is most cool Ross!

I'd be tempted to have one as reload myself incase I had a jam but one for each gun is also damn cool.

Great thinking indeed chap.

Hey Tomsilk cool sites. There is a real variation of quality in pits there, not looking to build one myself quite happy to tinker with just the controller part. That aluminium one is a work of art though. Not really into FSX either, I need something to shoot to keep me interested, however I've still not seen much to surpass the 747 efforts:



There a loads of people that seem to have simply amazing 747 reconstructions in their homes. :ugeek:
  • 0

#185 brando

brando
  • Posts: 65
  • LocationDevon, England.

Posted 22 August 2011 - 00:54

I should be able to clear jams by making that the shifted function for either button, Ben, as I'll be splicing these buttons into the CH wiring and not the LB circuit. That's the plan anyway.
  • 0

#186 SYN_Tomslik

SYN_Tomslik
  • Posts: 442

Posted 22 August 2011 - 06:03

Well , Viper pit dot org is mostly for the Falcon enthusiast.
its based in the Netherlands.
they also have some software Ive used with Falcon.
These guys are 'very' serious about anything Falcon or F-16 related.

something like this is all I have in mind.
I like the side type joystick vs the traditional center type.

http://www.rogerdodg...runit_home.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.rogerdodg...et/diyflightsim … _home.html
  • 0

#187 charlo

charlo
  • Posts: 814

Posted 22 August 2011 - 06:37

something like this is all I have in mind. I like the side type joystick vs the traditional center type.

http://www.rogerdodg...runit_home.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.rogerdodg...et/diyflightsim … _home.html

Tom, I almost built one of those until I showed the plans to my wife, and she snorted and said "No way, not in our house!" :o

If you have a wife, then you may be interested in what I use instead and which I prefer anyway - mounting my joystick and throttle on an old pair of speaker stands, which I describe and show pictures of in Does Anyone fly with the joystick on their lap? .

Charlo
  • 0
Intel Core i7-6700K Skylake OC @ 4.8 GHz | Corsair Hydro H70 CWCH70 CPU Cooler with two Noctua NF-F12 PWM 120mm fans | ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VIII HERO motherboard | EVGA Titan X Hybrid GPU | G.SKILL Ripjaws 4 Series 32GB DDR4 3000 F4-3000C15Q-32GRK RAM | Samsung 840 EVO 500GB SSD | CoolerMaster HAF 932 ATX Full Tower case |SeaSonic Snow Silent 750W Power Supply | Acer B6 Series B286HK ymjdpprz 28" 4K UHD (3840 x 2160) Monitor | Windows 10 Pro | CH Fighterstick, CH Pro Throttle, CH Throttle Quadrant, CH Pro pedals, CH MFP, Track IR 5, Buttkicker Gamer 2 | ====== My original ROF rig (now used by visiting gunners): MacBook Pro Core2Duo 2.66 GHz | 8 GBs RAM | NVIDIA GeForce 9600M GT 512 MB GPU

#188 SYN_Tomslik

SYN_Tomslik
  • Posts: 442

Posted 22 August 2011 - 08:07

Heh Heh .. yes I have one - but no I dont ! have a wife, I have instead a G/F that I live with
or does she live with me ??
I have my Den , or , 'man cave' !

Ive got a full shop that I can build, or how I like to say 'make' furniture in.
I had this big plan to go into business making custom funiture, but ppl would rather go to IKEA.

anyway -

I can make just about anything, but havent decided exactly what I want yet.
that rogerdodger PVC stand is pretty basic. just looking at those pics, Id make some changes to it.

this is what im using right now, scroll thru till you see my chair with the X 52 on it.
Your Virtual Cockpit?
I made that thing its on about 10 yrs ago for my X45.
took me about 30 mins to throw it together.
problem is, I havent come up with any better ideas … yet.
Id like to get a new chair with better padding, I do that and I prolly wont be able to use that anymore.
after 4 hrs or so my butt gets tired of sitting on it.

how heavy are those speaker stands, are they wobbly ?
I kinda prefer a more stable platform.

:S!:
  • 0

#189 SYN_Vander

SYN_Vander
  • Tester
  • Posts: 4710

Posted 22 August 2011 - 11:48

Here are some ideas Tomslik! Shouldn't be any problem for someone with furniture making skills! :)

http://s99.photobuck...derstok/Simpit/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://s99.photobuck...om/albums/l304/ … ok/Simpit/
  • 0

#190 J5_Rumey

J5_Rumey
  • Posts: 1180

Posted 22 August 2011 - 13:02

Had to give up temporarly on my long stick microsoft sidewinder 2 FFB rebuild. The thing was giveing me a really bad backpain, will give it another go when I have more time to build a pit around it. Maybe the base need to be on a leaning mount.
  • 0

#191 charlo

charlo
  • Posts: 814

Posted 23 August 2011 - 03:02

this is what im using right now, scroll thru till you see my chair with the X 52 on it.
Your Virtual Cockpit?
I made that thing its on about 10 yrs ago for my X45.
took me about 30 mins to throw it together.
problem is, I havent come up with any better ideas … yet.
Id like to get a new chair with better padding, I do that and I prolly wont be able to use that anymore.
after 4 hrs or so my butt gets tired of sitting on it.

That's a pretty neat, sturdy platform for your throttle and joystick, though I can see why it would make your butt sore unless you lay a blanket or something padded across the top of it and the chair's seat. It's a great design!

(Picturing you flying with that brings to mind a bit that one scene in "40 year Old Virgin" when Steve Carell is playing a video game in his gaming chair, with the controllers mounted on the end of each arm. :D :S!: )

how heavy are those speaker stands, are they wobbly ?
I kinda prefer a more stable platform.

:S!:

I was also concerned they might be too wobbly (hence an investment of only $25), but they each have lead weights built into the base, and the base of the stand for my stick is pretty much wedged between the Pro Pedals at the bottom and the front edge of my chair against the stand's pole.

I sometimes also wedge a thin piece or rubber behind one of the wheels in my chair to keep from rolling away in hard rudder turns, and I've never found the stands too wobbly. I also don't man-handle my controls as much as I did when I first started a year ago.

Charlo
  • 0
Intel Core i7-6700K Skylake OC @ 4.8 GHz | Corsair Hydro H70 CWCH70 CPU Cooler with two Noctua NF-F12 PWM 120mm fans | ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VIII HERO motherboard | EVGA Titan X Hybrid GPU | G.SKILL Ripjaws 4 Series 32GB DDR4 3000 F4-3000C15Q-32GRK RAM | Samsung 840 EVO 500GB SSD | CoolerMaster HAF 932 ATX Full Tower case |SeaSonic Snow Silent 750W Power Supply | Acer B6 Series B286HK ymjdpprz 28" 4K UHD (3840 x 2160) Monitor | Windows 10 Pro | CH Fighterstick, CH Pro Throttle, CH Throttle Quadrant, CH Pro pedals, CH MFP, Track IR 5, Buttkicker Gamer 2 | ====== My original ROF rig (now used by visiting gunners): MacBook Pro Core2Duo 2.66 GHz | 8 GBs RAM | NVIDIA GeForce 9600M GT 512 MB GPU

#192 Volans

Volans
  • Posts: 8

Posted 27 August 2011 - 12:25

Good day gentlemen! I first read this topic a month ago, and I was impressed: never knew is that easy to build a custom panel or joystick…
This is my first attempt to build a diy stick: the gimbal is an uni joint (actually only the core of the universal articulation), the rest is welded steel plate/tube; hand grip is carved wood, and I will use hall sensor for axis all wired to one of Mrs. Bodnar BU0836X cards. When it will be ready, I will build a small panel too.
That was my main source of inspiration http://simhq.com/for...tml#Post2958931" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://simhq.com/for...bbthreads.php/t … ost2958931 ,therefore all credits to him,(and to you..)
I am no particulary skilfull craftsman….. :)

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image

Unfortunately just broke my right elbow, so it will take some time. More time to read the forum!
  • 0

#193 brando

brando
  • Posts: 65
  • LocationDevon, England.

Posted 27 August 2011 - 12:28

After some thought I decided to keep a central-stick layout and I went out and bought a load of pipe and fittings to build a RogerDodger-style setup with. My last 'pit' was a Playseat with a central stand which worked well, but the bucket-type seat was never really wide enough across at the shoulders.

It was funny dropping into the local plumbing supplies shop and buying 9 metres of pipe and about forty fittings! Elbows, tees and swept bends: the owner's eyes popped out on stalks. :shock: He serves plumbers all day long, so his first question was "Are you sure you don't mean 90 metres of pipe?"

I laughed and told him I was building an instrument stand - he responded that it would be enough for an entire orchestra. :lol:
  • 0

#194 hq_Honeymonster

hq_Honeymonster
  • Posts: 621

Posted 28 August 2011 - 18:51

That's very cool looking Volans be sure to keep us updated with your progress.

Hurry up and get that stick sorted Ross looking forward to seeing how it turns out. :P

No one else building a button box/panel/stick/pedals? Don't be shy give it a try…
  • 0

#195 335th_GRSwaty

335th_GRSwaty
  • Posts: 25

Posted 02 September 2011 - 05:43

No one else building a button box/panel/stick/pedals? Don't be shy give it a try…

I have built some pieces just to practise (use tools,diefferent materials etc)


  • 0

#196 hq_Honeymonster

hq_Honeymonster
  • Posts: 621

Posted 02 September 2011 - 20:54

Some interesting switches you have there chap, nice. :)
  • 0

#197 Agent86

Agent86
  • Posts: 1638
  • LocationNorth Woods

Posted 02 September 2011 - 22:42

You asked for it…

Prepare to be wowed by my artistic/technical brilliance.

I think 30cm by 30cm may be too large - fit it into the smallest practical size possible.



Reward will be monetary and alchoholic…


Would that be considered "Drunken Money" :?: :lol: :x :S!:
  • 0

Sorry About That                                                           


#198 335th_GRSwaty

335th_GRSwaty
  • Posts: 25

Posted 02 September 2011 - 23:07

Another case study panel.
Used opencockpits.org chip!


Attached File  13.jpg   432.53KB   922 downloads

I regret that I used cheap pots,no joy :oops:
  • 0

#199 hq_Honeymonster

hq_Honeymonster
  • Posts: 621

Posted 03 September 2011 - 08:56

That's a cool looking little thing. :)

I'm suprised you had trouble with the cheaper pots I've used loads and they have been fine. I don't expect them to last forever but you should get a good 10,000 + operations from them. Those nice levers you've attached will no doubt be putting a lot of strain on the wiper though.

I have a similar little box for ROF it's so much nicer than using the keyboard. Everyone should have one. :)
  • 0

#200 335th_GRSwaty

335th_GRSwaty
  • Posts: 25

Posted 03 September 2011 - 09:28

Thank you!Maybe my soldering was not so good.

The case is very small and had no experience how to manage the wires, so you don't wanna see what is happening inside the box!!
  • 0


0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users